Jul
15
How to repair leaking fishing waders
July 15, 2007 | 3 Comments
How to repair leaking fishing waders
There are many different kinds of wader’s leaks: the torn crotch leak, the barbwire leak, the abrasion leak, the falling down on sharp rocks leak and worse of all – the hiding leak.
For all the visible leaks, it is very easy to repair a leaking fishing wader.
Most fishing waders come with a repair kit to be used once you notice a leaking, so use it in the following way:
- Make sure that you marked the entire leaking area. There is nothing more annoying than fixing what you thought was leaking only to find your socks wet again on your next visit to the lake
- The area you’re about to repair must be clean and dry
- For the patch to adhere effectively, avoid any loose debris, grease or oil
- You can stick a patch on the inside or the outside of the wader
- Patch should overlap tear by at least 1 cm in all directions
- Remove the release paper from the back of the patch, lay the wader on a smooth flat surface and apply the patch using finger pressure (adhesive side down)
- Rub patch surface in a circular motion from the center out covering the entire patch area
- The durability of the patch can be enhanced by applying heat and moderate pressure. Use a clean iron and set to medium heat. Press with moderate pressure in a circular motion for 30 seconds
- The wader can be used immediately; however, the adhesive will continue to strengthen over the next 12 to 24 hours
When the leak in your fishing wader is caused by a small hole - the barbwire leak or the notorious hiding leak, the easiest way that I’ve found to fix the leak is a product called “aqua seal”.
“Aqua seal” is a kind of a liquid patch that you simply spread over the area in need of a patch and let it dry.
It works great and is the in cases of small holes it’s better than using the patch.
Trying to repair leaking fishing waders becomes a real challenge when you’re facing the hiding leak.
You are busy fishing, and suddenly realize that your socks are all wet.
When you examine your fishing wader carefully, you cannot detect anything that could cause the leak.
So, how do I detect the invisible leaks?
There are a few ways I found useful:
- Put a low pressure air hose (e.g. a blower side of a vacuum cleaner) into the waders and tie it off at the chest opening.
Turn on the vacuum and blow up the waders like a balloon. Rub the waders with soapy water and look for bubbles. Anywhere you get bubbles you have a leak. Mark the leaking spots, wait for the waders to dry and apply the “Aqua seal” or patch.
(Remember use a low air pressure for not damaging the wader) - If you don’t have that kind of a vacuum cleaner, fill the wader’s legs with water (one leg at a time), and rub each leg with a soapy water.
The rest is the same as the vacuum cleaner technique - Take the waders into a darkened room along with a flashlight and a marker. Insert the flashlight into the wader legs and run it back and forth over the boot and leg. If you see a light coming out at one point, this is a leaking point.
Mark the hole / holes and apply the patch over the marked area - The following
technique works well on breathable waders, but will not work for neoprene waders:
Turn your waders inside out and let them dry completely.
Put some rubbing alcohol in a spray bottle and spray the area you suspect to be leaking.
If you see lingering dark spots as the alcohol evaporates off; you’ve found your pinhole leaks.
That kind of holes are best fixed using the “Aqua seal”
Remember that although it’s not complicated to repair leaking fishing waders, the best way is to avoid the leaking in the first place.
Following this great and simple tip helps to prevent leaky waders:
When you get back home from fishing, make sure you store your waders hanged upside down to dry out.
Just leave it hanging that way until they’re needed again. This is true for both neoprene and breathable waders.
This prevents folds which are potential weak points and also allows the air to get inside the wader, to help prevents mold.
Happy fishing 
Jul
5
The Nomad - A new rods series for Kayak Fishing
July 5, 2007 | 2 Comments
The Nomad, Hookset Global’s Kayak Series - The Answer for the Paddlers’ needs?
Over the past 10 years kayak fishing has quickly evolved as a truly mainstream style of fishing. Sit-on-top style kayaks are the most common boats used for the pursuit of both freshwater and saltwater fish. These affordable and easily launched craft offer exceptional access to prime fishing areas, while their quiet, low-profile presence on the water provides for stealthy presentations to wary fish.
The unique characteristics of kayak design, however, create challenges for traditional rods, and as it’s the hottest trend in fishing recently, the right solution was just a matter of time.
With the introduction of Hookset Global’s Kayak Series – the “Nomad”, paddlers now have specialized rods, especially designed to excel from a kayak.
Hookset Global’s Kayak Series, the “Nomad” includes four saltwater models, two spinning and two casting.
Two kayak fishing rods are built in one piece, measure 2.10 meter in length and the other two kayak fishing rods in the Nomad series are built in 2+1 pieces, measure 1.80 and 2.10 meter, all feature fast actions, built from high quality carbon, and come with high quality Fuji guides.
The Nomad Series consists on lightweight, sensitive and agile rods that deliver an incredible amount of power and long-term durability.
You can clearly see that every detail in the Nomad Series kayak fishing rods was specifically design to answer the needs of kayak fishing.
The 2.10 meter rods were design for the longer kayaks, of size 4.10 meters and above.
The benefits of 2.10 rod length and fast action begin with trolling and continue through fighting fish. The specific length assures the trolled line will not interfere with paddling, even when your rod holders are placed in front of the angler. With a fish on the line, the rod length and fast action assures that the angler can follow it around the ends of the kayak while remaining safely balanced in the cockpit.
The 1.80 meter rod is designed for shorter kayaks or for situations when you are targeting massive fish.
The JIG2C and JIG2S rods offer a great solution for those who can’t decide which length is better for their needs.
The JIG2 rods consist on 2 + 1 pieces – the handle and the blank, when the blank comes in two different lengths, to built either a 1.80 or 2.10 rods.
The size of the rod also affects its strength, when the 1.80meter rod is rated for up to 70 lb line support.
The high quality carbon provides the confident power needed to land fish.
In the absence of a partner’s assistance, the angler must “high-stick” the rod to bring fish within range of a net or gaff. The Nomad rods offer the structural stability to withstand “high-stick” landing of fish, without having to fear any damage to the rod.
The Nomad series handle design is configured for use from a sitting position.
The rear grips are shortened for easy maneuverability around the torso and thighs while the fore grips are lengthened for a firm grip, generating leverage from the upper body only. The lengthened fore grips also provide ample room to attach rod leashes where they will not interfere with a comfortable hand position.
The Nomad Series casting models include: TRL210C, rated for 30- to 50-lb line and the JIG2C, rated for up to 60 lb for the 2.10 rod and 70 lb for the 1.80 rod.
The Nomad Series spinning models include the TRL210S, rated for 30- to 50-lb line and the JIG2S, rated for up to 60 lb for the 2.10 rod and 70 lb for the 1.80 rod.
Happy Fishing J
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